diamond head

by Matt Luttrell

In ancient Hawaii, much thought and effort went into the crafting of a papa he’e nalu (wave-sliding board). Surfboard shaping was not simply a skill to the Hawaiians. Rather, it was an art form. Each surfboard required a sacred ritual that began with a mele (song) that asked the Gods permission to use a chosen tree. Next the shaper would make an offering of kai (water) or ava (kava) to make sure everything was pono (righteous) before felling the koa or wiliwili tree. Once the tree was chopped down, the shaper would then bury a red fish in the kumu (roots or base) of the fallen tree as an offering to the Gods. After this ritual was complete, the surfboard shaper was finally allowed to transport the log back to the heiau (temple) to begin the sculpting of the surfboard.

古代ハワイにおいて、papa he’e nalu(波滑る板)を作り上げる時にいろんな知恵と努力が使われた。ハワイアンにとってサーフボードシェーピングはただのスキルでは無かった。むしろ芸術形式だった。各サーフボードには神聖な儀式が必要で 選ばれた木を使う為に神の許しをもらうmele(歌)から始まる。次にシェーパーはコアかウィリウィリの木を切り倒す前にkai(水)又はava(カバ)を捧げ、全てがpono(正しい)な事を確かめる。シェーパーは木が切り倒された後に、kumu(根)の中に神への捧げ物として赤い魚を埋める。この儀式が終わると、サーフボードシェーパーはやっと切った丸太をサーフボードとして削り上げる為heiau(寺院)に持って帰る事が許される。